From planning and design to construction and materials, we'll walk you through every step of the process to help you create a beautiful shed.

Step 3: Meet Your Coach

Once you have your project vision, it is time to meet your Coach! Each Turkstra location has Coaches who specialize in our different product categories (gameplans), and their training is aimed at helping YOU Build-It-Better.

A meeting with your Build-It-Better Coach will focus on the details of your project, such as timing, budget, materials, style, and so much more. Proper planning and resources are critical to the success of your project, which is why we take the time to work through the details of your project together.

Below, you will find Project Information Sheets that will get you thinking about your project and some of your Coach's questions. Feel free to get a head-start before meeting with your Coach by filling out a form and bringing it to your meeting.

Shed Terminology

General

Level: When something is level, it lies straight from side to side horizontally.
Nominal Dimensions: The label given to a piece of lumber. For example, a 2×4 is the name of a board that measures approximately 1 7/16” X 3 1/2”.
OSB: A sheet good that consists of compressed wood strands. This engineered product is similar to particle board and often comes in the same dimensions as plywood.
Plumb: When something is plumb, it is straight up and down vertically.
Sheet Goods: Building materials sold in large sheets rather than in boards. Common sheet goods are plywood and drywall.
Square: When all corners are exactly 90 degrees.

Foundation

Anchor Bolts: Used to connect elements of a shed to the concrete foundation. The bolts are embedded in the foundation.
Concrete Slab: A layer of concrete used as a foundation of a shed that also acts as the floor.
Deck/Concrete Blocks: Precast concrete blocks that sit on top of the ground and are used to hold up posts or support the floor of a shed.
Form: A barrier that helps hold the concrete in place until it hardens.
Concrete Float: A tool used to finish a concrete surface after using a screed board has been used.
Pier: A column of concrete that extends into the ground to a depth below the frost line.
Rebar: Steel reinforcement used to make concrete stronger.
Screed Board: Used to smooth concrete to a flat, level surface.

Framing

Bottom/Sill/Sole Plate: A piece of framing lumber that rests on the floor and creates the bottom of a wall.
Cripples: A shorter wall stud that is placed above some door openings as well as above and below window openings. Cripples are nailed to the plates, window sill, and king studs in a rough opening.
Framing: The fitting together of lumber to create the shape and structural support necessary in a building. The term framing is also used for the structure created during the process of framing.
Header: A beam-like member that supports the weight of a structure over the hole needed in framing for a window or door.
Jack Studs/ Trimers: Framing components needed on the sides of rough openings. Jack studs are nailed to the inside of king studs under both ends of the header.
Joist: A length of lumber typically arranged parallel at 16” on-centre (similar to wall framing, but horizontal). Usually supports a floor or ceiling.
Jack Studs/Trimmers: Framing components needed on the sides of rough openings. Jack studs are nailed to the inside of king studs under both ends of the header.
Joist: A length of lumber typically arranged parallel at 16” on-centre (similar to wall framing, but horizontal). Usually supports a floor or ceiling.
King Stud: Runs from bottom to top plate and is nailed on both ends of the header on each side of a door or window rough opening.
On-Centre: A framing method where the distance from stud to stud is measured from the centre point in the width of a stud.
Rough Opening: The hole required for a door or window when framing a structure. Rough openings have a header across the top and vertical trimmers on the sides. Also, window openings have a sill addition to create the bottom of the opening.
Studs: Pieces of lumber that act as upright supports in the structure of a wall. Sheet goods are attached to studs.
Top Plate: A piece of framing lumber that rests on top of the studs and creates the top of a wall. Roof components are attached to the top of the wall after framing is complete.
Trimmers/Jack Studs: Framing components needed on the sides of rough openings. Trimmers nailed to the inside of king studs under both ends of the header.
Window Sill: Creates the bottom of a rough opening and is nailed to the bottom of the trimmers and the king studs. The window sill is supported from below by cripples.

Roof

Bird’s Mouth: a cut made into a rafter so that it rests correctly on a top plate.
Bridging: refers to pieces of lumber installed between joists or rafters to help prevent deflection.
Gusset Plate: A triangular piece of plywood that reinforces the connection between boards in the roof structure.
Hurricane Tie: a piece of hardware designed to make a structure more resistant to the forces put on it by high winds.
Ladder: creates the portion of the roof that extends beyond the walls on the gable end of a shed.
Overhang: A part of the roof that extends out and away from the walls to give the roof a larger area of coverage. Overhangs also add to the aesthetics of a roof, but more importantly, redirect rain away from the walls.
Pitch: The slope or angle of a roof. Pitch is indicated as a vertical amount of rise over a horizontal distance of run.
Rafter: One of several pieces of lumber running from the top of a wall to the peak of a roof. Rafters create the structural integrity of a roof.
Ridge: A piece of lumber at the peak of a roof to which the rafters are attached.
Truss: A pre-constructed framework of lumber that creates the structural integrity of a roof.

Exterior Finish

Door Jambs: The two upright pieces of a door frame, from which the door is hung.
Roll-Up Door: A door that is guided on a track and coils around an overhead mechanism. A garage door is an excellent example of a door that is similar to a roll-up door.

Shed FAQ

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The purpose of your shed helps determine what you need to consider. For example, if your shed is only for storage, there may not be any reason to install windows. Likewise, if you want to use your shed as a workspace, you may want to install windows for some natural light.

In most areas, any shed over 10 m2 or 108 ft2 needs to have a building permit. Consult with your local permit office to ensure you do not violate your region’s restrictions.

A concrete slab is an excellent foundation for a backyard shed. It is a strong, permanent foundation with a smooth floor on which to build your Shed. Slabs do an excellent job of resisting the forces that frost puts on a shed. Slabs require a compact gravel pad underneath, with a stable soil underneath the gravel. An alternative to a concrete slab that can be just as sturdy if appropriately completed is a pier-based foundation. This is a strong foundation as it is anchored into the ground with concrete, but can also be expensive and has a higher level of difficulty than most DIY-ers are comfortable. Using concrete blocks is one of the easiest ways to create a shed foundation. It is easier than both a slab and piers but has its drawbacks. This option is friendlier for a DIY and is also the most cost-efficient. Find out more in the Materials Selection section in the “Building Your Shed” half of this game plan.

There are height restrictions that vary by region. Check with your local permit office to ensure that your shed does not exceed height requirements. Typically sheds have wall heights of 7 or 8 feet.

A gable roof is a typical roof that has two opposite sides with slopes. These two slopes create a triangular shape to the roof. A single pitch roof is a roof that has only one slope, sloping all in the same direction. Single pitch roofs are sometimes called lean-to or shed roofs. There are also other options available, such as a cottage roof, but these are considered more difficult for a DIY builder.

The difference between rafters and trusses is that rafters are built on a construction site whereas trusses are built off-site. Rafters are an excellent choice for any shed that is smaller than 10m2 or 108ft2. Any larger shed should have trusses designed to meet the structural requirements that are necessary for the shed.

There are a variety of door options, which include standard hinged doors, sliding doors, roll-up doors, and others. The style of the door may affect the size of the door required. For example, a roll-up door requires more room than a single door because it is wider and taller.

Windows can be installed in sheds to allow natural light to enter the structure. The larger your window, the more complicated the project is. The most straightforward course of action for windows is to install windows that fit between wall studs. Windows are for a shed as they serve minimal function other than letting in light.

Many materials are available for finishing the exterior of a shed. Some popular options are wood, vinyl, Hardie board, Chalet board, and barn board. See the Material Selection & Price portion of the game plan for more details on each exterior finish.

Most sheds do not need insulation. Do not plan to insulate your Shed unless you have a specific need to do so.

Adding electricity is a way to make a shed a great space. Though you may want electricity in your shed, this game plan does not cover how to install it. For safety sake, contact an electrical professional to get this part of your project completed.

Step 4: Design Your Shed